How should a suit fit?
It doesn’t matter how old you are, or your size, a suit looks brilliant on anyone, as long as you achieve the perfect fit.
Over the years of wearing off the shelf suit, one after the other, many men have become accustomed to wearing a suit that doesn’t fit right, and trust me, we can all tell. Usually, whether there ‘ankle-wafters’ or looking strangely like a crisp packet as the trousers roll over themselves due to being far too long, they tend to be the main problems. Dependant on your build, there are other problems that a suit can bring, including a jacket that’s too tight around the waist (whether that be a case of the extra weight put on over the Christmas period, or not) the sleeve length being too long/short. Not to mention the shoulders of a suit, so many men seem to walk around, not fully understanding, that these are a problem.
There are very simple ways of getting these things easily sorted, and throughout this blog-post, I’ll be teaching you how to achieve, that perfect fit.
Jacket length is mainly dependant on your height. A smaller gent, would ideally want a suit that finishes around the middle of their crotch, this will make them look taller. On the other side, if you’re a taller gent, you want the jacket to be a little bit longer toward the bottom of your crotch to have the opposite effect of the aforementioned jacket. I suppose based on that, the middle (average height) man, knows what to do!
One trick to help with this, is to have your arms down by your side, and just fold in your fingers and touch your legs, this should help to give a rough guide!
When trying on the jacket of your suit, make sure you’re wearing a shirt that fits well. The shirt will sit on your wrist, wherever you feel is comfortable, and the suit sill sit approximately 1-2cm behind it to show off a bit of your cuff.
The shoulders of your suit should feel snug, but not too tight. You should be able to feel your shoulder if you gently press at the very top of your arm, and the suit should sit flat against your shoulder and shoulder blades. The top of the sleeve should have no wrinkles and fall beautifully down your arms.
When trying on your suit, always try the top button, there should be no tension or pulling around the button and you should be able to gently slide a couple of fingers, sideways between your body and the jacket.
The Length (The biggest problem)
Ahh… here we go, this is a mistake by way too many, and now you know, you’ll be noticing it around the office all day. I understand that we are in the 21st century, and there are people who like to show a cheeky bit of ankle on social occasions. But this is going on basics, you’re getting dressed for work/a formal occasion. The best way to get this right, is to ALWAYS try on a suit with your shoes on (don’t try to put you’re your shoes through the trousers!), and this will give you a very quick and clear indication as to whether the trousers are too long or short. In the front of the trousers you want 1, possibly 2 creases, as anything more than this will look incredibly messy. At the back of the trouser leg, it should rest about half way down your shoe. Bare in mind that the narrower the trouser, the shorter the leg as unless you’ve gone back to the 80’s to get your flares out, they need to fit comfortably on top of the shoe.
The waist of your trousers should feel snug, with or without belt hoops. If you give them a slight tug (in the changing room/comfort of your own home) they shouldn’t budge, let alone fall down. Around the back, a lot of suits will have a small notch in them, a small cut in the centre, to give a small amount of extra flexibility when being seated.
This one, I have to leave to you, these days most men are wearing suit trousers that are much more narrow than what they were back 5-10 years ago. If you want, grab one of your old suits out, and measure the bottom width of a pair in comparison to the last pair you bought to really see the difference (you might even want to get them re-tailored)!
In all honesty, a dapper man once said to me, when questioned why he left the back of his tie longer than the front, ‘as long as you feel comfortable, and you feel confident, you can wear anything however you like’, and I couldn't help but agree.
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